Tuesday 22 September 2020

An informal East Coast Cruise 2020 with Greenwich Yacht Club

In the absence of an official Greenwich Yacht Club East Coast Cruise due to Covid 19 protocols, a hardy group of suitably distanced sailors ventured out ‘unofficially’ on what turned out to be a rewarding if stormy week in mid August.  It was, as always, a pleasure to sail in company and meet at anchorages and harbours along the way; this time more anchoring than usual, perhaps to better distance ourselves, perhaps because it is so satisfying to drop the hook in quiet places and watch the sunset. Looking back at my previous posts I see a lot of sunset photographs, so only the best in future!

Dancing burgees in turbulent air

 

The first half of this year seems to have just been swallowed up by horrible circumstance but at last we can go sailing and it is a tonic to see big skies and distant horizons again. This trip it’s been big winds and bigger seas than Snow Goose has seen on our previous estuary ramblings. The boat performed excellently throughout, she is tough and steady and sails well with a bit of wind – she definitely has a preferred area of wind speeds, 12 to 17 knots, perhaps all boats do.

 

This trip I had the bonus of the company of my son Zephyr, who despite not having much cruising experience is a natural sailor, perhaps due to his long experience of that thoroughly intuitive kind of sailing, windsurfing.

 

Day 1 Gillingham to Queenborough

 

No wind to speak of at the start of this short journey down the Medway but rising to around 9 knots as we went and despite being a rather grisly afternoon it was somehow atmospheric to begin our week under the grey tones of wide Medway water and sky.  We joined the catamaran Tiger Lily at Queenborough, and five boats eventually rafted up on the (appropriately) grey visitor buoy as we were joined by Eos, Lena and Aeolus. The sixth boat Caroline V opted to anchor in nearby Stangate Creek. A convivial evening of mild social distancing made quite natural by the cockpit spacings of rafted boats.

 

Day 2 Queenborough to Harty Ferry

 

With the forecast suggesting better wind the following day friendly consensus decision making led us not to cross the Thames Estuary for a day and instead make our way to Harty Ferry in the Swale via the Kingsferry Bridge. With little or no wind we made sedate progress processing up the Swale to the bridge and went through after only a short wait. This lifting bridge which carries a road and railway line and used to be the only way to get to the Isle of Sheppey is now dwarfed by the newer road bridge which sails over the landscape and can be seen for miles. The older lifting bridge is a noble affair, like an ancient Egyptian gateway with its huge tapering concrete bastions, we slink through to a different world beyond.  From here after passing leviathan factories served by working wharves and various industrial ruins the Swale opens up to become a wide and peaceful body of water. The deep(er) water channel is narrow though and you had to concentrate on not wandering from the buoyed route. After anchoring at Harty Ferry for a few hours we decided to go on a seal hunt and potter downstream in a downpour to admire the colony of Grey Seals. Such relaxed animals, about 20 lolling bodies watch us watching them - Very rewarding especially returning to a beautiful evening on the anchorage, to enjoy the best of this excellent spot. 



Making our way along the Swale channel 


 
Seals photographed through the binoculars



Caroline V safely anchored up for the night


Day 3 Harty Ferry to Brightlingsea

 

A long crossing, wind all over the place and what wind there was, seldom more than 5 knots. So we motor all day, with only an hour’s sail in the middle of the journey in a sudden quite vigorous squall. Of course we put on our waterproofs just too late and got thoroughly wet clambering into salopettes et al. We pass within a few hundred meters of the gaunt and eerie Red Sands Forts. Great skies all day with shower laden clouds parading around. We arrived into Brightlingsea in time pick up a berth among the other GYC boats which had somehow all got ahead of us – I think we motor at about 3.5 knots at engine speed of around 1200 rpm. We could go faster but at 1500 rpm the engine uses noticeably more fuel. As it turned out this trip involved much more motoring than usual and more searching for fuel at the various stopping points.



Red Sands Forts under lowering skies



Comfortably tied up in Brightlingsea




 

Day 4 Brightlingsea to West Mersey

 

Suddenly its windy and the GYC fleet decide to stay put in Brightlingsea for another night. So not wishing to miss out on some good sailing we opt to head out and sail up to West Mersey. A good decision – after a choppy start in the mouth of the Colne we head west on a fine strong wind beat into the Blackwater to West Mersey. Sun, spray over the bow and gusty winds up to about 20 knots make sailing a real pleasure - judging when we are pinching too much and whether to come off the wind a degree or two to speed up and only getting it right towards the end of the afternoon. We could have got there sooner if we had sailed a little freer – next time.  As it was we came into West Mersey in good time and were assigned a space far enough into the river for a peaceful night on a buoy. Interestingly at high water these moorings are a lot more exposed, no longer having the shelter of the river banks, and at this point a swell came in from the estuary to remind us that it really was quite rough out there.

 

Zephyr at the helm



Well reefed and still flying along past Mersey island



Day 5 West Mersey

 

Time for a rest day and some essential shopping – diesel. We blow up the tiny tender and the newly serviced, smooth running outboard takes us through the chop to the town jetty where various notices tell you that its closed and not to moor to it which is a bit strange.  But the West Mersey welcome turns out to be very good indeed – a short conversation on the shore with a sailing family  revealed that it is a couple of mile walk to the nearest fuel, but brilliantly and generously they lent us bicycles and we had an enjoyable ride through the town. Quiet, quaint even West Mersey is Essex vernacular at its best, now the home of this boaty community. As it happens it only occurred to us when safely back on board Snow Goose that one of the bags we had used to carry the fuel belonged to the kind people who lent us bicycles and worse still at the bottom of the bag was a posh waterproof jacket. So back in the tender through the windy chop to the shore and up the street to their house to give it back– they hadn’t yet missed it. In amongst all this coming and going we had time a fine lunch of oysters and chips - as you do in West Mersey. 

 

Day 6 West Mersey to Harty Ferry

Wind Westerly and South westerly 0 rising to 20-30 knots through the day

 

What looks like a reasonable track was tough in the second half of the day as wind and tide turned against us


Setting off at 0700 proved too late for the tide gates and this became a long day as a result. It started well though with an enjoyable sail until midday as the wind built in the south west and until it was on the nose. We reached the Spitway, obligatory crossing point that all boats must pass through on their way north or south, slowed in the last hour by the tide rising against us. After the Whitaker Beacon we head south sailing closer and closer to the wind as the route inevitably forced us more and more into the south west. The wind rose to 20-30 knots and with a wind over tide choppy sea progress was slow until eventually the tide turned and the going became tougher still with wind and tide against us. Motor sailing and tacking into the funnel of the Thames estuary in this big chop was hard but at least picturesque in sunlight and fine cloudscape. But eventually it got too difficult to make worthwhile progress and I toyed with the idea of going straight on into Sheerness and the Medway for the night. However it soon became clear that although we were equidistant from Sheerness or the Swale, continuing to head west was going to be really slow and tough going too. So I decided to go, as planned, into the Eastern Swale to Harty Ferry for the night and then on to Queenborough the next day. We crabbed across to the Sheppey side trying to get under the shelter of the cliffs and out of the worst of the sea. This was a long slog but eventually paid off and we were able to go eastwards along the Sheppey coast with the tide for a bit in relative shelter and in a fine evening. The last long motor into the eastern Swale was indeed long with a vigorous spring tide against us.  But we got there and came in past the seal colony watching us comfortably from their shiny mudbank. We anchored up tucked in close to the south shore at Harty Ferry for shelter in preparation for a windy night. Anchoring here is a bit tricky as the bottom is quite steeply shelving but it held OK and proved much more comfortable than the North side would have been. Phew – a long day indeed. Lesson: Plan more carefully. We should have set out at least an hour earlier to get to the Spitway before the tide turned and then pressed on into the Thames Estuary ahead of the next turn of the tide – working with the tide not against it.  This is lore in the estuary and I’ve crossed it often enough to know it! We would have got in two to three hours earlier had I planned it better. Never mind the sea sparkled, the skies were great and it was a good experience. As always the boat behaved as solid and strong as ever. 



Sailing out to the Spitway - not early enough in the morning

A bored welcome back to the Swale from the seals

Day 7 Harty Ferry to Queenborough

Wind Westerly 20 to 40(!) knots

 

As predicted, the wind had got up in the night and in the morning was blowing hard even at our sheltered anchorage. However the anchor had held and we set off up the Swale at 11.00 with a very strong wind kicking up white horses and making windward progress tough motoring even with the tide. Spectacular conditions for an effectively inland waterway. We were pleased not to be going round the outside of the Isle of Sheppey that day. We finally arrived at the Kings Ferry Bridge and after a discussion with the bridge elf (I hasten not to say troll) about all the problems of engineering and trains etc were allowed through quite quickly. Actually he was friendly and well meaning and we shot through to a windy mooring in Queenborough and a rest. 


Using the Swale to get back to Queenborough proved essential. We would have had a difficult time using the other route and might even have had to turn back, so all in all a good outcome.

 

Day 8 Queenborough to Gillingham 

Wind Westerly 20-37 knots 

 

More tough conditions but a bright sunny morning and actually a very enjoyable motor sailing beat up the Medway in a metre of wind over tide chop. With a reefed main only we were able to tack up river reasonably easily, skilfully helmed by Zephyr all the way. We arrived at Gillingham Marina to the usual steep rise in temperature in the sheltered marina basin and a calm lunch on board before packing up. 

 

As windy as I've seen it in the Medway - gusting 37 knots

 


This was a week of headwinds, not a single day of down wind sailing or even broad reaching, just beating. And considerably more motoring than I am used to. But for all that we enjoyed it very much. We were sorry to leave the GYC fleet at Brighlingsea but got more sailing as a result and importantly we got back across the estuary before the wind became too strong to cross in our intended time away. A lovely week.




Sunday 19 July 2020

A post lockdown Cruise - July 2020


Queenborough - windy sunset


It has been a slow start for sailing this year, first a back problem, then no access to the Marina during strict lockdown and then the wait to be allowed to overnight on my ‘second home’ Snow Goose.  The latter restriction was relaxed on the 4th July so on the 5th I headed out. Originally this trip was to be with Stefan on Shuda, social distancing still requiring only individuals or individual households on one boat, but he was unable to come having run into a groin on the Ovens Buoy Race the week before damaging his keel. So it was a single boat, single handed trip and none the worse for that. 

Just under a week on the boat in variable wind and weather, characterized by the remains of a low bringing strong winds at the beginning of the week and a weak high after that. Rain and mixed weather mid week meant I didn’t go to as many places as I expected, finding it better to be based in Brightlingsea but that was fine.

Day 1. Sunday 5th July - Gillingham Marina to Queenborough Harbour, late afternoon.



Flying down the Medway under just a reefed genoa


1630-1805
W 15-30kn

Having delayed starting out by a day to avoid very strong winds crossing the Thames Estuary this sail down to Queenborough was double quick (one hour and 35 minutes) under reefed genoa only, with winds westerly 15-20 and gusting 30 knots. A beautiful sail, although I was a bit preoccupied about whether I would be able to pick up a buoy at Queenborough in wind this strong. I needn’t have been, all went smoothly.  No-one else was about - or mad enough to sail today.  Halfway down I had a private aerial display of a Red Kite harried across the Medway by seagulls – they don’t seem to get on. The usual sea and marsh birds everywhere, they have had a quieter spring and seem more apparent this year perhaps as a result. 

The usual warm welcome at Queenborough.

Day 2 Monday 6th July – Queenborough to Brightlingsea, afternoon







1300-2030
NW 15-20kn

Setting off at lunch time - as soon as the tide allowed - and hoping to get to the Spitway to catch the change in the tide at around 1940. A good plan but the wind was so good I shot up there and was well early. Its always hard waiting to get off and inevitably I did so a little ahead of schedule - seen off from Queenborough by a seal and later welcomed into the Colne by another. A great wind on the quarter and then on the beam made the leg up to the Whitaker both fast and simple with 2 or 3 other boats for company, which although quicker than me seemed to end up coming into the Colne at roughly the same time. Sailing on the tiller pilot for long periods produces a remarkably straight line on the Navionics track, it’s a good sailor ironing out the gusts and wave adjustments better than I do.  Beautiful skies and sea colours changing through grey to green to brown as the light changed with great boiling clouds in the latter part of the day.  Coming up to the Whitaker and then the Spitway at least an hour and a half ahead of plan meant we were head on to strong wind and the spring tide as we turned North West towards the Colne Bar. I could have carried on sailing and tacked in laboriously but instead I opted to motor, itself quite enjoyable now that I do properly trust this engine, and my servicing. As it is we came round the Colne Bar buoy and up to the Colne as the light dropped and were treated to a spectacular sunset as I arrived into Pyefleet Creek and dropped anchor alongside Talisker 1 with James Tomlinson of Samingo Sailing, blog and You Tube video fame. A wave between skippers is as close as we get to forming a relationship. Interesting how isolated one is at anchor even if there are other boats nearby.  That is usually a good thing. This time I was almost the last boat in and had a brilliant quiet meal at anchorage watching the sun go down in the northwest. 

A lovely afternoon wind


Day 3-5 Tuesday 7th-9th July – Brightlingsea


In a gathering westerly breeze the Pyefleet anchorage can get uncomfortable as the boat dances around trying to decide whether to obey tide or wind directions. So At Midday I went across to Brightlingsea for a pontoon berth, after a seemingly impossibly large cargo ship came slowly out between the moorings from the last working quay in the creek beyond. Visited Tony O’Donovan and his new boat Malibu (grand name) on the pontoon at Morgan Marine, a part of Brightlingsea I didn’t know, at the top of a large and dusty marine related industrial estate – a mine of expertise and resource no doubt.  Morgan Marine seem to be the dominant players in Brightlingsea. 

Resting in Brightlingsea and enjoying a simple life on the boat, painting, reading, cooking and generally looking about me.

Pyefleet - windy clouds


Brightlingsea - watching the tide 

Brightlingsea Egrets


A fine potter up the Colne to Wivenhoe at high water on a windless grey afternoon. The Bert Prior tied up to Ballast Quay is a sight worth seeing. The Prior coasters have been plying the Thames Estuary between the Colne and London for many years. When fully laden the gunwales of these boats are astonishingly low on the water and must have to be careful of their draft going up and down the Colne. On Thursday an enjoyable visit from family, Zephyr and Emily came down from Cambridge in a Zipcar for a walk and lunch on board.




Day 6 10th July – Brightlingsea to Queenborough


0800 1530
WNW 5-20kn

A delightful sail back across the estuary in variable winds on virtually one tack all the way, goosewinged out to the Spitway and then a beam reach becoming increasingly close hauled towards the Sheppey shore.  No wildlife visible today but otherwise a lovely day of trade wind skies and green-blue water. The wind rose through the day and by the afternoon I should have reefed but didn’t bother. I wonder whether I would have done with single line reefing and lines all brought back to the cockpit – probably.  Snow Goose builds weather helm with increased heel and I am conscious that I am slowing progress with the rudder but I’m never sure how much especially when these have been such quick crossings anyway.  Bearing away a little helps reduce heel and of course speeds the boat up. 

I sailed across the Spitway ½ hour before low water with never less than 2.1m below the keel – we had less than that nipping over the end of the Whitaker Spit. Then one long tack all the way to the Isle of Sheppey. The wind was strong enough to throw everything around in the cabin, I must remember to secure it all more effectively next time…

There is something about these day long journeys, sailing buoy to buoy and almost out of sight of land, despite being in shallow water for much of the time. It feels like a rite of passage, I wonder whether it always will. 

A short motor round Garrison Point and into the Swale. Again made welcome at Queenborough and had an excellent Pizza ashore at the Admirals Arms following their quite thorough distancing protocols.

Crossing the Spitway

Day 7 11th July  - Queenborough to Gillingham




1105-1340
NW 10-20kn

Probably the best sail of the trip. A ‘technical’ upwind beat, getting the most out of the boat and concentrating on luffing up in the gusts to gain ground particularly round the headlands. Really satisfying. Only a couple of tacks needed, making it only about 4 tacks in the whole week!  My old Gibb winches are slow to operate and sometimes hard to haul in tight in a strong wind but I like them enough.  And I still sail mostly on the wind vane at the masthead rather than looking at the instruments - tougher on the neck but better for keeping an eye on the sail trim at the same time - and somehow more real. I came in very close to shore round the Napoleonic fort at Darnet Ness only to find another boat passing inside me unseen behind the genoa. Good to know there is depth there I suppose. 



This has been a lovely week. The Essex shore is easily accessible for me single handed even in fairly strong winds, although timing and tide management is important. The boat has behaved impeccably and the recent installation of a NASA battery monitor makes life a lot simpler and gives one confidence to use electrical power more freely. Although Snow Goose is not quick she is an ideal boat for this kind of sailing and for me. I was fortunate to buy such a boat so inexpensively when I did and to be able to gently tweak her into performing as well as she does. Here’s to many more trips.