Its Different in a Bigger Boat

The Greenwich Yacht Club East Coast Cruise 2015 on Snow Goose - A commentary

It's different in a bigger boat.  Much though I like small boats, for that ‘Old Man and the Sea’ feeling, and despite the pleasures of my previous much loved Drascombe Coaster Spray, I am happy to say the East Coast Cruise this year was a more comfortable and more fulfilling experience on Snow Goose. OK she doesn't sail as well in light winds (yet) as Spray did but what Snow Goose lacks in that respect she certainly gains in others.  For a start there is room for a crew of two to join me for the week in relative comfort, allowing us to get on well in both cockpit and below - no cabin fever here. It's early days on Snow Goose, and I have lots more to learn about how to get the most out of a Bermudan rig like this. I am looking forward to doing that. So far since buying her in Newcastle last year she came South (on a lorry) to Gillingham, which is the closest to London the lorry driver was prepared to come and where for convenience I kept her over the winter, she has been cruising about in the Medway and the Thames Estuary. She was then moored for a month or so at GYC before spending much of the summer in Brightlingsea. There she gained an almighty beard of weed and barnacles in record time, but was duly beached and scrubbed on the in time for the ECC.

Beached on Brightlingsea Hard and scrubbed, ready for a cruise

So Jim Grady, Peter Garland and I joined the cruise at Brightlingsea. We consequently missed the first couple of days and an epic Thames Estuary crossing in high wind and rain but we met up with a tired and happy fleet that Sunday evening.  From then on our days were varied in weather and destination and as the East Coast Cruise unfolded we visited both familiar and new places, all worthwhile and interesting.

My excellent crew - Jim and Peter at Pin Mill

Day one was an exciting start for us with force 5-7 south westerly winds driving us up the coast to the Orwell. - excellent weather for a crew to get to know one another and the boat. With one reef in the main and a turn or two on the genoa furler the boat flew along and apart from an uncomfortable swell on the starboard quarter, until we resorted to deep broad reaches instead of a run, she was quite at ease. This was very different to sailing a small boat in such conditions. Spray also used to like strong winds, and one somehow always felt safe in her, but being very light she would ride over the top of the waves rather than in and through them.  The result was always a roller coaster and often quite wet. Exciting yes but hard work and tough on the crew. We would often ship water over the rail and occasionally need to stand up and pump. By contrast it takes a lot for Snow Goose to dip her rail and the crew stay much dryer.

The mighty Felixstowe Dock dwarfing all around it

Having arrived at Suffolk Yacht Harbour in the lower Orwell and well rested, our next day was spent sailing in the Orwell and Stour, again in strong winds, and I and my doughty crew had plenty of opportunity to hone our tacking skills which started off, well frankly a bit ragged. Snow Goose is blessed with vintage fixed handle winches. They look nice and I feel they are part of its charm but I admit they don't work as well as modern two speed winches. It is therefore, at least until we get better at it, a little slow coming out on the next tack. Spray, being a big dinghy really, didn't have winches, a different kind of hard work one might say and often tough on the hands hanging onto the jib sheet before cleating in. But the two boats were of similar early seventies vintage and are definitely sea boats, sailable either alone or in company.  Our beat up the Orwell to the Royal Harwich Yacht Club was thoroughly enjoyable and good practice. The previous long term owner of Snow Goose left much of her sailing gear in its original state for which I am grateful. Nearly always boats, (buildings, people etc) work better left as designed rather than as adapted over time and I am learning how to sail Snow Goose early seventies style. For instance she is very dependant on a well set Genoa and a light touch on themain, being prone to weather helm otherwise, and the genoa sheets are meant to run a long way aft to permit a decent set of sail. I've only just found this out and once reorganised I have no doubt it will make a difference to my sailing.

Essex skies - Deben

There is another big difference between the boats - the engines. Not long before I rather unexpectedly sold Spray, (I did not intend to buy a bigger boat it just happened), I got her a beautiful new outboard. This went with the boat to its new and happy owner. Before that I had an elderly Honda outboard which would taunt me with its irregular behaviour at in opportune moments, like Sea Reach in a blow. So far Snow Goose, which has a new(ish) Perkins diesel engine, has delivered immediate and reliable power with a confidence which is new to me. And it needs to of course, especially when manouvreing backwards onto the inside of the hammerhead at Gravesend Town Pier against a spring tide to drop off crew at the end of the Cruise. Anyway before all that the Cruise took us as far as Woodbridge up the winding Deben, penetrating deep into the Heart of Darkness, or was it Suffolk, and as the week went on and the winds became more fickle motoring became a more frequent pastime - OK for getting there but it feels wonderful when you switch it off.

Peacefully berthed on the Hammerhead at Royal Harwich Yacht Club

Sailing back down the Essex coast as close as the depth guage will allow us to, not quite as close as I used to on Spray but still close enough to wave at people walking their dogs and se them waving back.

And then there was the sheer delight of a secluded (or actually quite busy) anchorage at Pyefleet, letting the afternoon slip away and the sunset come on, comfortable in the knowledge that the meal and the company is going to be good and the boat a really nice place to spend our time. Anchoring a bigger boat takes a bit more doing than I am used to and having a willing crew certainly helps, but I will get the hang of it.

Blue Moon at sunrise - Pyefleet

We returned to Greenwich over the last two days hot days spotting seals and porpoises on the way, seemingly surfacing to take a good look at us. And although the wind was pretty tricky in the last few days of the cruise that last couple of hours’ reaching into London afforded us some good sailing.

Grain Fort guarding the Medway under a mackerel sky

So I got a bigger boat to sail in more comfort and to provide me with a sort of mobile studio, to allow me to paint and draw where I wanted. I haven’t managed that bit yet, too busy sailing it, but lets hope a few days tucked away in some quiet anchorage will do the trick. I used to paint on Spray but occasionally the work got wet or got trodden on in the rather close quarters of the cabin – Snow Goose is an altogether more civilised prospect.

Log of Snow Goose 27.7.15 - 1.8.15

Greenwich Yacht Club East Coast Cruise 2015 - Yacht Snow Goose

Crew: Jim Grady, Peter Garland

I joined the cruise at Brightlingsea with crew Jim Grady, Peter Garland, and consequently missed the first couple of days including an epic Thames Estuary crossing in high wind and rain but we met up with a tired and happy fleet that Sunday evening.  From then on our days were varied in weather, wind and destinations and as the East Coast Cruise unfolded we visited familiar and new places, all worthwhile and interesting.

Day 1 27.7.15  Brightlingsea to Orwell

Wind SW 5-7 (20-29 knots)

Max speed (OG) 9.6kn

Ave speed (OG) 5.4kn

Distance 26.5nm

While some take a rest day in Brightlingsea others head out into force 5-7 winds and a swift run up to the Orwell. Snow Goose is a stable boat and likes a wind so with one reef in the main and a couple of turns in the Genoa she rattles along and we surf up the Wallet at good speeds. Goose-winging is fine in principle but with a swell on the starboard quarter requires more concentration than we have stomach for so we follow Caroline V's example and opt for a series of deep broad reaches, one more comfortable than the other. Once into Harwich Bay and flatter water we reach our fastest speed yet. 

The contrasting peace when finally tucked up in Suffolk Yacht Harbour is palpable.

Day 2 28.7.15  Orwell

Wind SW 5-7 (20-27 knots) gusty

Max speed (OG) 9.6kn

Ave speed (OG) 4.5kn

Distance NA

A strong wind sail in the Orwell and a little way up the Stour - that is to say we tack back and forth across the mouth of the Stour against wind and tide and then put the motor on to go as far up as the light ship then whizz back down wind to the Orwell. An excellent beat up the Orwell practicing our tacking skills all the way up to Pin Mill. Quite apart from the poor shape of a partially furled genoa I am convinced the two sails are not working well together, sheet in at all hard and the Genoa backs the main, and yet we are not pointing particularly high. More practice needed! On to our destination, the excellent Royal Harwich Yacht Club hammerhead, where we are joined by a number of other members of the fleet. The new clubhouse with its manicured lawn with fine views down the Orwell is a special place, worth stopping at.  A pleasant evening in very good company at the Butt and Oyster Pin Mill and the walk back in moonlight through the woods are memorable.

A peaceful evening at Pinmill

Day 3 29.7.15  Orwell to Woodbridge

Wind SW 5-7 (20-27 knots) gusty

Max speed (OG) 7.2kn

Ave speed (OG) 4.0kn

Distance 20.7

An early start at sunrise and after motoring down the Orwell to the sea another brisk sail up the coast to the Deben. Clear weather means that crossing the Bar is uneventful although I lose my nerve and we motor in rather than sailing between the sandbanks. Once into the beautiful Deben we are in another world, and wind our way under huge Essex skies and sunshine up to Woodbridge. The Deben is long, penetrating deep into the interior - like something out of The Heart of Darkness.  It seems strange to see large seagoing yachts moored all the way up the Deben, even above Woodbridge where the river gets decidedly dry. Having settled into the Tide Mill Yacht Harbour I drag my crew to the Sutton Hoo for a bit of Anglo Saxon culture. An hour is a rather longer walk than we bargain for but worth it. The Anglo Saxons were clearly considerably more civilised than the hair shirts and moustaches that the popular image might suggest, with incredibly intricate and carefully wrought jewellery and armour. Walking back down the dry Deben spotting birds, including red fronted Curlew Sandpipers. Another happy evening in the pub this time meeting up with Ed and Sue Bowness, fortuitously cruising in parallel with the ECC fleet.

Wanderer keeping us company winding up the Deben

Woodbridge Tide Mill

Day 4 30.7.15 Woodbridge to Harwich

Wind NE 1-2 (5-7 knots)

Max speed (OG) 8.2kn

Ave speed (OG) 3.5kn

Distance 16

A leisurely noon start, after a morning of fixing and shopping, back down the Deben and the coast to Halfpenny Pier at Old Harwich. The wind having turned and dropped to light zephyrs, we potter along the coast before turning into Harwich. On arrival at Halfpenny Peir we are noisily marshalled into position on this tiny but busy quay by the harbour master. It's a great spot to watch the world go by including the arrival other craft, small and large, from Trinity House maintenance ships to a 15 ft open boat. A sunset supper looking out across the mouth of the Stour at the mighty Felixtowe docks.

Sunset at Halfpenny Pier - Harwich

Day 5 31.7.15  Harwich to Pyefleet 

Wind SE 0-3 (0-10 knots)

Max speed (OG) 7.0kn

Ave speed (OG) 4.4kn

Distance 20.7

After some discussion most of the fleet decide to head for Pyefleet Channel rather than the Roach, anticipating a longish light wind Estuary crossing the next day and wishing to avoid the extra miles in and out of the Crouch. The first part of the morning is spent motoring until the wind picks up to a respectable force 3 and we have an enjoyable beat down the beaches of Walton, Frinton, Clacton and Jaywick. With the tide high enough to cross the Colne Bar we make good time running goosewinged into the Colne. The boat is saling well in these conditions with the main set up neatly now. Anchoring Snow Goose for the first time is a little ragged and we end up a little close to Blue Moon but not uncomfortably so once they have let out a little more chain. Pyefleet on a sunny afternoon and evening - bliss. Anchoring enforces a simple life kept away from the temptations of land and instead, pottering on the boat, resting and eating. Could be worse!

The GYC fleet at Pyefleet 

Day 6 1.8.15  Pyefleet to Queenborough

Wind SE 0-3 (0-10 knots)

Max speed (OG) 7.1kn

Ave speed (OG) 3.4kn

Distance 36.1

Up early again to catch the turn of the tide at the Spitway and on across the Estuary to Queenborough. Keeping in view of Blue Moon all the way and later Lena. A particularly good day for wildlife with two seals popping up nearby and two harbour porpoise sightings. Not such a good day fro wind which keeps coming and going, mostly going. Had to wait for a ship to pass before crossing the shipping lane but otherwise kept up a good 3-4 knots under motor assisted by sail. Coming into Queenborough to raft up with the whole fleet on two groaning grey buoys.  The load on our buoy made all the more by the arrival of Nick Fossey's ‘house boat’.

Day 6 1.8.15  Queenborough to Greenwich

Wind S 2-3 (5-10 knots)

Max speed (OG) 8.6kn

Ave speed (OG) 4.1kn

Distance 36.5

The homeward journey. All the boats leave together to catch the last of the dropping tide at the Nore and up Sea Reach. Just as we pass Grain Power Station it explodes in an apparently controlled demolition blast. A spectacular dust cloud then stays with us for some hours.

Ardent

A Gypsy Rose and Lena in close company

Little of no wind again for the Sea Reach leg but coming up nicely in Gravesend Reach. As we come into Gravesend to drop Jim at the pier a tug takes exception to my being on the left hand side of the river - not entirely fair as I am landing that side but there we go.  Dropping Jim off proves to be difficult with the only space on the untied inside of the hammerhead so I back in breasting the tide and we tie up momentarily. Sad to lose a crew member after a week but Peter and I sail on contentedly enough. Eventually get a good sail for the last hour or so and Greenwich comes into view in time for a 1500 arrival as predicted. Tricky time getting onto a new temporary mooring, tying mooring lines onto the buoys at each end of the trot. Now settled on a rocky mooring at Greenwich for a few weeks.

Arriving at GYC

Log of snow goose 23-26.05.15

23.0515 - GYC to Erith

1735-1950, 2 hours 15 minutes. Engine hours 1.

Wind Easterly 10-15 knots, force 3-4

9.5nm, average speed 3.5kn, max speed og 6.7kn

A fine Saturday evening leaving the choppy waters of Bugsby's Reach for less seasick making moorings - the last three weeks on the Thames at Greenwich has been a mixed blessing: Strong tides choppy waters and the tricky task of getting on and off a trot mooring make it a very different challenge to the calm of Gillingham Marina.  

Provisioning at Greenwich Yacht Club

So down river we go for a short evening hop to pick up a mooring off Erith Yacht Club. We started under motor, which is now behaving beautifully with no signs of the earlier overheating now that the water intake has been cleaned. Then once past Margaret Ness sailed all the way in long deliberate tacks, learning to do things calmly and smoothly which this boat likes best. Picked up an inner trot mooring at Erith just as the wind was dying and settled down for a fine gnocchi supper on board. Sadly no-one was at home at the yacht club to entertain us so we stayed on board Snow Goose, early to bed for an early start the next day.

Downstream to Erith

24.05.15 - Erith to Queenborough

0740-1415, 6 hours 25 minutes, engine hours 1.5

Wind NW 10-15 knots, force 3

30.7 nm, average speed 4.6kn, max speed og 9.1kn

First light on an Erith mooring...

A decent cooked breakfast to begin the day, dropping the mooring at 7.00 to stay with the tide to the Nore Swatch. A gentle start, motoring to begin with, but soon able to sail in bouts, resorting to motoring on through Gravesend to stay ahead of the tide. A bright morning with fine views as the river opens out to sea reach. Several rather stout seals lie on the sand like so many logs as we glide by. The boat behaves impeccably even in light winds doing 3.5 to 4.5 knots down Sea Reach, finding its own groove.

...and off to Gravesend

Sea Reach

Seals seen through the lens of the binoculars

Arriving at the Montgomery ahead of schedule we circle round it as close as we can get.  At low water the masts rise well out of the water making us wonder what its like below – eery. An enjoyable beat into the Medway and up to Queenborough. 

The wreck of the Montgomery

The boat is missing 2 battens and the sail trim is far from right yet but we are learning fast and so far Snow Goose has been a delight to sail.

Reaching up the Medway

25.05.15 - Queenborough to Brightlingsea

0715-1550, 8 hours 25 minutes, engine hours 1

Wind NW/NNW 10-15 kn reducing to 10kn, force 3-4

35.3nm, average speed 4.2kn, max speed og 7.7kn, max speed ow 5.5kn

Leaving Sheerness with one reef

Early start to catch the tide, 0730 off the moorings and down the Medway with one reef and 15 knots of wind. Skirting Sheerness with its jumble of old and new buildings – it seems to have been immune to the pressures of conservation with 20^th century structures piled on top of historic Napoleonic masonary.  The same applies to the Isle of Grain Martello Tower opposite, a crazy concoction of 'buildings'. Out to the Montgomery, this time at high water, almost entirely submerged, and then on out to the comparative space of the Estuary.  

Sailing from buoy to buoy

Nothing in the shipping lane as we skip across to the Northern shore and contour crawl along the edge of the Maplin Sands. A continuous north-westerly keeps us on one tack for 5 hours, buoy hopping all the way up to the Spitway. Here we regret not having set the depth guage correctly and tack severall times just in front of the Spitway trying to find deep enough water.  Actually it was all deep enough and we need not worry.  Final beat across to Brightlingsea, the wind becoming  north-north-westerly by now. Sail trim improving all the time. Motoring for the last ½ hour into Brightlingsea as the wind comes onto the nose - tired but happy with a fine day’s sail under huge skies.  For much of the day we have had the Gunfleet Wind Farm ahead of us apparently getting no closer, just bigger – it is very large.

Making good progress towards the Spitway

26.05.15 – Brightlingsea to Osea and back

1330-1900, 6 hours, engine hours 1

Wind NW/NNW 10-12 kn, force 3

25.3nm, average speed 4.2kn, max speed og 6.7kn, max speed ow 6kn

After a leisurely morning of breakfast and boat fixing in Brightlingsea Harbour, a delightful sail in the Blackwater at its best. Setting off on a rising tide out of the Colne and towards the Blackwater, watched over by the brooding presence of the Bradwell Power Station, (which is being reclad to make it last last the remaining 90 odd years of its decommissioning!).  Sailing on one tack most of the way up to Osea Islands before turning round at the anchorage to head back.  The newly installed Tiller Tamer is a huge improvement and will transform single handed sailing, allowing one to walk about  the boat much more freely. Blue skies and green water – especially when seen through the hole in the hull when I take the log fitting out to try to free the paddle wheel. The log turns out not to be reading due to poor electrical connections not the paddle wheel, so I need not have got so wet doing that. 

Passing Radio Caroline

With the systems all running smoothly we concentrate on sail trim and getting the most out of the boat.  It works well and we get 6 knots out of her in comparatively light winds – I look forward to a stronger wind sail. Lessons learnt:  Do not point too high and do not sheet in too tight. Now where have I heard that before?

Under Essex skies

Return to Brightlingsea, tired and ready to clear up tomorrow before leaving the boat in its new summer home.

Brightlingsea Harbour calm