Sailing on the London Thames

Drascombe Coaster no. 46 'Spray' is based at Greenwich Yacht Club on the Thames. This blog is a record of my more interesting journeys on the river and further afield.

Greenwich Yacht Club - East Coast Cruise 2014, a Brief Participation

Friday 18.7.14 -  1700

Arrive at GYC to prepare the boat and launch. The floating pontoon from which we can leave at any point on the tide is already full of 'east coast cruisers' preparing for an early start tomorrow. Kate helps me set up and we launch Spray at 1800 in hot sunshine and a glassy Thames (a rare state for this reach but possible at slack water). I am feeling poorly but decide to  plug on with it.  Once launched I have to circle for ten minutes, practicing with the new motor and waiting for someone to move off the pontoon to make space. I end up with a good sheltered place right on the pontoon rather than in a three deep raft - happy.

Saturday 19.7.14 - 0700

Sailing into fitful easterlies

Grey with f1-2 light wind from the east - just what we need! - this is going to be a day of motor-sailing. I set off with four or five other boats at 0730 on top of the tide and with the best chance of getting all the way down Sea Reach before the tide turns.  The new outboard motor (Yamaha 6hp) is a delight giving 3.5 - 4kn at about 1/3 full revs. Yesterday evening while ambling about waiting for space on the pontoon I was doing 1.5kn at tickover. I would actually like it to be slower for really gentle manoeuvres but it seems that this boat moves too easily through the water for that. I can see that I will not be pressing the new outboard much - which may not be so good for it but will give lovely quiet motoring, and is what I hoped for. I raise the main to Motor sail into the headwind and hope I am shaking out the reef for last time today. This operation takes too long with my current set up of boom and down haul which comes up from the deck, threads through the tack and back down to the cockpit. I must must fix this so that it becomes easier to do in a wind and seaway. One of the many advantages of the Drascombe loose footed sail is the speed with which you can make adjustments. The boom I have added is a big improvement up wind and and down, but it needs refining to become more convenient.  Anyway as it turns out there are going to be several reefings and unreefings today in these fitful easterlies.

There are bursts of serious rain around Crossness, coming down so hard that the water goes white with bouncing drops and the wind is lost. I motor on.  After the rain the sun and a sense that the day might turn out well, which it does, but for the wind direction.  I am sailing in company with the other GYC boats although each at some distance from one another. It will be interesting to see who gets in to Queenborough and when.

There is the usual 'wind over tide' chop at Gravesend and I notice some strange over falls along the south bank, making me wonder what the profile of the bottom is here. Anyway no time to linger, on we go to the increasingly bigger Thames and the bend round to the Sea Reach. This point in the journey downriver is always a relief, generally the wind improves here with a greater fetch and I feel as though we have finally shaken off London. The wind does improve but is still easterly so we tack round the corner and into the long east-west stretch of Sea Reach itself. There are seals on the north bank, lying like logs, presumably sleeping off a fishy dinner. Seals seem to have a pretty easy life here. 

After more motor sailing I finally turn off the outboard for the first time today(!) and sail properly, tacking up the southern side of the Reach, avoiding the shipping (which is busy), and turning smartly when the depth gets below 2m. If we weren't having to zigzag down the river on this long beat there is a good contour/shelf we could be sailing down in a straight line for miles using the depth gauge as guide. Anyway it is the most interesting sailing of the day involving reefing and unreefing as the wind changes. The wind is fitful and a gust catches me unawares in a ragged tack - I ship a bit of green water and curse my poor sailing. To make up for it I make myself sail steadily on the the same tack long enough for the water to drain out of the scuppers to leeside without any falling back into the cockpit from where I would have to pump - a last resort.

The sun is hot now and I shed layers progressively and don more sun cream. This leg down sea reach, although long, is my favourite. On the north bank are the shipping terminals and oil refineries and the deeply uninviting looking Holehaven. In contrast to the south it is rural and marshy. Looking south the Isle of Grain is not like the rest of Kent, like Sheppey it has the quality of another place, somehow apart from the rest of Kent. It remains (until Boris gets his hands on it) relatively unpopulated. Less so at its Eastern end where the chimney from one of our bigger power stations is a landmark one is aware of for many miles. Across the Thames to the north is Canvey Island, then Southend and by now we really are in the sea.  Every time I come here it seems to be a steep 4ft (plus) chop and Spray lives up to her name, requiring me to put oilies back on despite the heat. I am conscious of feeling pretty awful by now and start wondering about the wisdom of this cruise with what feels like oncoming flu.

 

Grain Power Station 

Rounding as close to the Nore Swatch buoy as I have patience for, we start to enter the Medway. There is stronger wind now and it has finally moved into the south east, so annoyingly is still heading us. To the East is the wreck of the Montgomery, which always frightens me and to the West Grain Fort, a much altered Martello Tower, whizzes by to starboard. I think of all the times I have passed it and the different conditions.  I arrive into Queenborough and a mooring on the concrete barge nearly an hour ahead of my passage plan time.  I have been gaining slowly on my waypoint timings all day, it's the affect of motoring comfortably slightly quicker than my expected sailing speed made good. The usual friendly reception amongst other GYC boats and but for feeling pretty ill an excellent convivial evening.  I cut this short to repair to bed and make big the decision to pull out of the East coast Cruise from here on.  Horrible but the right decision.

 

Grain Fort - it's becoming a friend!

Sheerness - Napoleonic and scruffy

Sunday 20.7.14 -  0700

I text kate to tell her my decision and amazingly she appears on the shore at Queenborough by 8.45 to rescue me. We go home and I sleep till evening when we go back to collect the boat with the trailer. The people at Queenborough are extremely friendly and helpful, in a Dickensian sort of way. It is slightly surreal bringing the boat to the slipway and hauling out to the sound of a kind of Cajun country and western sing-along in the pub next door but it sort of fits the place.

The Swale May 2014

Sunday 25.5.14

Distance 7.5 nm

Wind South 3-4 gusting 5
No crew

Flying along under an East Coast sky

Setting off early from Greenwich with Spray on the Trailer, Conyer is an hour away and after the hello’s and paying of fees there is just the right amount of time to rig and launch on the top of the tide. It's a peaceful marina and despite a lovely breezy morning not much traffic out into the Swale. The creek is winding and a times narrow. You have to trust the channel markers which take you well in towards the banks on the bends. Then out into the Swale. Sails up and suddenly the motor speeds up, driven by the sails - time to kill the engine. Peace, combined with a tingle of excitement as we get under way with just the wind taking over. This is what makes sailing so satisfying, the sound of water in the bow and the thrill as the wind gets up. We whizz through South Deep past the moorings (for later) and shoot out into the Swale proper. At this point of the tide it's a wide and inviting waterway. Beware though, the channels are narrow and the water is shallow. That's fine in a Drascombe and at times I'm down to 0.7m on the depth gauge. I must check what that actually is, if its really the depth below the hull I must be close to grazing the oysters with the centre board.

Sail setting reasonably well on a reach

Beating up and down the Swale at 4.5 - 5.5 knots is fun and towards the end of the morning the sails are setting really well and the speed is as good as it can be in these 3-4 winds. As the wind increases I am frankly over canvassed and the boat is heeling but I'm not stopping now to reef, it's too much fun. Besides playing the sheets like a dinghy to keep her from heeling too far is entertaining. Slightly surprisingly I get wettest going about, a sloppy tack or perhaps a particularly strong gust.  The Swale is looking good today and the water, while not actually blue, is reflecting the sky and looking quite unlike an east coast estuary. In a hour and fifty minutes I cover 7.5nm and a top speed (over the ground) of 8 knots.  Time to stop before I tire and start making silly decisions. I beat back into the South Deep channel and when the wind comes too far onto the nose give in to motoring which is actually a relief after the boisterous wind in the sails. This outboard is growing on me. It's heavy and not so new but on low revs it gets along confidently and most important, quietly.  Moored up along with three other boats, this place is a well kept secret, a special spot. The birds on Fowey Island chatter and cackle and rather bizarrely I have the company of a cuckoo calling from somewhere behind the sea wall. A large unidentified hawk glides over us flying low and bothered by gulls. I hope its a Marsh Harrier.  As the tide sinks so does our viewpoint and the mud glistens on either side, above us. The mud is so wet that against the light it reflects like the water and the two are indistinguishable from one another. The effect is odd, drying boats and buoys hovering strangely high up. Now its time to attempt a watercolour in Turner primaries. This could go wrong.  

  

Evening:  It did go wrong, too purple or something. Anyway, a spectacular evening, light and calm except for the screaming birds on Fowey Island. Interesting how as soon as a place is designated a bird sanctuary it fills with birds - or perhaps it's the other way round.  The sun an inch above the horizon the water flat and the reflected light seems brighter. 

Monday 26.5.14

Windier and wilder. The wind has moved into the north overnight, which apart from having to get up to stop the halyards vibrating, was peaceful. Serious breakfast followed by spring clean while waiting for the tide. As we get to within an hour of high water out of nowhere a parade of large yachts appears returning to the marina. Where were they in the night, one wonders, to have timed it so precisely? Swale Marina is as friendly and calm as ever. This has been a thoroughly worthwhile outing despite 5 o'clock exhaustion each day. The outboard misbehaved this morning, running badly while cold. Time for an official Honda service!

An easy recovery on the excellent slipway at Swale Marina

The Tidal Thames Drascombe Association Rally - May 2014

We chose one of the windiest weekends of the year for the Drascombe Association Tidal Thames Rally and consequently there was a drop in the numbers actually attending, mostly due to this weather forecast. It was nevertheless very enjoyable and those who did attend had a good experience of the river and of Greenwich and Erith Yacht Clubs. From a possible 12 boats in all the rally actually involved 5 boats. The Drascombe Asociation members were joined by the London Nautical School (2 gigs) on the Sunday with a large contingent of youth sailors from the School and from Erith Yacht Club.

The weather was changeable with strong winds and gusts arriving just as forecast. This gave us challenging force 5-7 winds and heavy rain squalls interspersed with sunshine and rainbows. A grand backdrop to the tidal Thames landscape for our visitors.

Visiting boats arrive 

The Rally Programme:

Friday: Visitors arrived by water, (from Shepperton upriver), or by road and launched and moored ready for Saturday.
Saturday: Downstream from GYC to Erith Yacht Club where we were made welcome and shown around the club before setting off back to GYC in the evening.
Sunday: From GYC upstream around the dome, across the Meridian Line to the Royal Naval College, the Cutty Sark and back.

Spray

Seeva under jib and mizzen

The Sailing Experience:

Although sailing was limited due to the very strong winds, we had a brisk sail down under jib and mizzen sails and a motor back against the wind on the Saturday. We were accompanied by the club safety boat Yellow Peril, the brave crew of which had a rather wetter experience than the Drascombe sailors who’s boats are well known for their good behaviour in choppy waters. Sunday proved more ‘sailable’ under reefed mains as well. The wind and tide whipped up a significant chop but this did not dampen spirits and the river proved its usual mix of scruffy, beautiful and interesting.

Marsh Magic sailing round the dome

Conclusions and lessons learnt:

GYC and the Tidal Thames is a good venue for a Drascombe Rally and weather permitting the fleet could have gone further downstream and back - perhaps to Gravesend. The two clubs would welcome a rally again and could easily cope with larger numbers. Launching and pontoon mooring all went smoothly and the presence of safety boat on Saturday, although not strictly necessary, was much appreciated and will have given visitors more confidence. Visitors thouroughly enjoyed the experience and were grateful of the welcome they got at Greenwich and impressed by our facilities - one even writing an account of the weekend in epic poem form.

Sailing Log: Greenwich Yacht Club East Coast Cruise - 17th-19th August 2013

Garth Emrich helming Spray at 7kn

First two days of the 2013 GYC East Coast Cruise

Total distance 88 nm

Day 1 GYC to Queenborough.  

Wind SW starting f3 ending f5-7.

Crew- Garth

Fast sail down the Thames reaching Queenborough in record time of 6 1/4 hours. Wind strengthening as the day proceeded to gusting 7.  An exciting sail. Despite reefing  at Holehaven we still did the fastest speed yet in Spray of of 7kn, (10.1kn over the ground). Increasingly rough as we got towards the Medway but not unpleasant. Tacked in as far as we sensibly could and then motored the last mile or so. Very wet with spray coming up over the bow even with the spray hood up. A fantastic day.

Harbour porpoises seen at crossness in the Thames and on entry to Queenborough in the Medway. Also seals, 6-7 on the sandbanks at the beginning of Sea Reach.

37.2nm average speed 5kn

Day 2 Queenborough to Brightlingsea.

Wind SW starting f3 dropping as the day proceeded to f1-2.

No crew.

Beautiful day to cross the estuary. Sailing singlehanded but in company all day. Very enjoyable. Passed close to the wreck of the Montgomery outside the Medway- very spooky and surreal, only the masts out of the water. Then across the shipping lane. Had to wait for a very large freighter to pass then go on following the fleet. Half way across we decided to motor sail to catch up some time. Much of the fleet converging and passing through the Swin Spitway  together. Able to sail again after this on a beam reach. Just faster than Icarus the corribee but only on this point of sail. Motored the last 3 miles into Brightlingsea. A beautiful day but could have done with less motoring. Outboard will run at low revs with choke slightly out (thank you Sean).

35nm average speed 3kn

                                                  Various members of the GYC fleet:

Balantrae

Tiger Lily

Talulah

Ardent

Icarus

Day 3 Brightlingsea environs.

Wind SW f3.

Very enjoyable potter up the Colne to Arlesford Creek and back.  Good birds and landscape. Paintable if I had only stopped!   Back to Brightlingsea to pack up and leave the boat.

11.5nm

Sailing Log: Medway and Back 20-21st July 2013

Early morning day 2 - passing Grain Tower

Single handed weekend sail to Queenborough, Medway 

Day 1. 

GYC 1125

Crossness 1155

QE2 bridge 1350

Gravesend 1455

Hole haven 1645

West nore1800

Nore swatch 1900

Queenborough 1945

8 hours 20 minutes

Surprisingly grey start after two weeks of blue skies but undeterred etc.  Motoring start into force three and then on the nose all the way. Ran slightly late and behind schedule at each waypoint but not enough to matter. Bursts of motoring. Motor sailing v effective. The usual nasty chop at Gravesend from wind on tide.

The sun came out in Sea Reach, a beautiful pearly light in this broad place, and the waves started to build.  Passed a lifeboat attending to a yacht (aground perhaps?).  Wind over tide building to 8 ft waves to ride - which spray did well - soaking the skipper and crashing off wave tops. Scary. 

Saw a seal lying leisurely on the beach only 50 metres away from my maelstrom. It feigned fear and started toward the water but thought better if it when it saw it was only me.  

Last few miles motoring, then sailed into the Medway with a following sea of breaking waves. Unpleasant near broach - Held the helm over seemingly forever to try and get the boat round.  Eventually it came round but not before lying broadside in a trough with the rail in the water. Did not ship too much so perhaps lucky.  Lesson -  free the mizzen and main immediately, in fact do not sail downwind in a following sea with mizzen at all.  Too tired for such excitement. Decision - anchor in Stangate or moor in Queenborough? Went for the latter. Too tired to go on and anyway looking like rain. Good choice, after ambling round the harbour in a dazed state found the harbour boat and negotiated a nice mooring next to Hal and his wife on Kingfisher! These GYC people get everywhere. They were also sailing back the next day.

As you go down the estuary the landscape gets bigger. Result - You get smaller. Cruising is always like that, big gaps between buoys and long distances which look tiny on the map. A very beautiful experience.

I must have motored half the way, 20 nm. Less than half the

tank used. Pretty good. That means 0.75L per hour or 3.3MN

per litre.

Fantastic day.  More of the same tomorrow?

Reefed all the way.

Queenborough - safely moored but exhausted

Day 2.

Queenborough 0530

Nore Swatch say 0630

West Nore sand 0700

East blyth 0725

Holehaven 0750

QE bridge 1030

Crossness 1140

GYC 1250

7 hours 40 minutes.

Damp and grey start up at 0430 for simple breakfast and welcome tea (simple things make sense in small surroundings). Set out a few minutes ahead of Hal assuming he would catch up - he did. Straight out into head wind and waves.  Motor sailed out to Nore Swatch in company of about 5 others. Amazing seeing medium sized yachts leap over and into the waves, at times most of the hull out of the water - what must Spray look like.  Crashing down makes a horrible noise but the boat seems fine. Engine is good for this stuff, tough and confidence inducing. 

Turning left into the Thames over shallow water (1.7m at one point) and then the long run in. Hal a tiny spec behind growing of course as they caught up and over took.  Shook out the reef at East Blyth and flew along at 5KN. Slowing as the day grew and as the wind reduced to force 2ish.  Hal put his biggest genoa up to overtake me but slowly enough for a chat.

Motored through Gravesend and Tilbury to avoid the shipping in windless spots.  Passing Broadness a glimpse into a tiny inlet with moorings I had not seen before – very Dickensian looking, must come back.

The wind died in Woolwich and the day suddenly became hot, 30 degrees, so put the motor on to GYC.

Ghosting upriver past the Ovens Buoy

The boat performed brilliantly with no breakages and very little water shipped in the whole weekend. The new boom is a real improvement down and upwind but makes for more work reefing and stowing - Must fit a topping lift.  The engine is OK although it soon reverted to old habits of not running at low speed grrrr.  I think I will replace it, but is an electric powerful enough to get through that?). 

Moving time 15.34 hours

Distance 81 NM

Max speed 9.4kn (over ground)

Average moving speed 5 kn